Lisbon to Alpriarte 22k in a Coke Oven

I want to speak about Camino Angels. These are people who help you out at just the right time. On the Camino these instances can be downright uncanny.  We had at least four of them on our first day.

We got on our way from Cathedral Se at about 7:30. We would learn that this was not early enough.   Winding our way through the small labyrinth streets of Lisbon and trying to keep an eye out for the yellow arrows is not an easy task. Especially on THIS Portuguese route since even though it is the second most popular Camino route after the France's, it really is in it's infancy of regaining it's ancient popularity. That, and most people who walk this route don't start in Lisbon.  Our yellow arrows now also include a blue one since this is, to a certain point on the way, a pilgrimage route to Fatima where in 1917 three children saw Mary the mother of Christ, standing in an oak tree which is still there today. She showed herself numerous times to these children and brought messages of peace coming in the midst of bloody WWI. This began a pilgrimage and in October of that year 70,000 people had gathered near the oak tree when suddenly they were drenched in rain and just as suddenly the sun shone blindingly bright. "Gods fiery signature". In 1930 it was recognized by the Vatican as a true miracle. So there you have it.

Back to our Camino Angels. We became confused for the first time and headed down a street when a man came running out of a café yelling "Santiago de Compostella?" It took us a second to figure out what he was saying but he pointed down a street we had completely missed. This in a city where most locals are not all that savvy about the Camino. Angel #1.

The second one came on a busy road on the outskirts of the city. We had walked over the overpass where behind us under the bridge was a man yelling at the top of his lungs. Us being the suspicious Americans that we are, thought immediately, what does he want from us?  He too, was frantically waving and pointing. We had missed the arrows completely. Why the hell was this guy under the bridge and what was he doing under there? Waiting for us of course. Hearty handshakes, big smiles,  blown kisses and obrigados (thank yous) all around and we were on our way.

The third was Sebastian a young 34 year old man from Germany. We were walking on an earthen track when we looked behind us and lo and behold, there's another pilgrim! The first one we have seen! We made our acquaintances and walked and talked and told life stories and took breaks in the soaring heat and shared what snacks we had. Did I mention Spain and Portugal are in a heat wave?  Had it not been for Sebastian's company and his distraction and diversion, I think I would have melted way sooner than I did.

We made it to the only albergue in town, a brand new one opened just in May. I'm so glad because both John and I  had run out of water and I could not have made it another step. Sebastian had gone on after we took a somewhat extended break since he had paid in advance for a hostel in Villafranca. He was waiting at the alburgue refilling his water and asking if we wanted to grab a beer at the local bar. He had planned to let the heat of the day dissipate a bit before he continued his journey. Smart move.

The cold water given us by the hospitelero at the alburgue was a god send. I was experiencing a bit of heat exhaustion after the beer, cold shower and washing cloths in the heat box of a courtyard. Frankly I was a little freaked since heat stroke can be really dangerous. As a matter of fact, a pilgrim died on the Camino Frances today of just this! Did I mention this place has no AC? I don't care. Turns out we are the only ones staying. The kind hospitelero drove John to the store where he supplied us for a quiet dinner of chicken and pickled olives. Perfect . We managed to get some sleep as the night cooled down. Tomorrow promises to be not an inferno.