Leaving Vigo for Redondela Getting Closer to the Holy Grail

Camino magic exists.  

 Cute little guy I named Benny accompanied us for a while. 

The view from the window of our hotel in Redondela. 

Up early and down to the included breakfast at 7:30 this morning.  We wanted to get into our next accommodation at a decent hour today so we can have a little down time to rest. Gina and Bill insisted on having breakfast with us, even though they were laying over here, as you never know if your paths will cross again.  We bid adieu and headed out into the misty city morning.  The guy at the front desk said we could get the Camino at the cathedral Santa Marta. No luck with finding any arrows.  We headed north through the busy city streets asking along the way,  only to be met with blank faces. No other pilgrims to follow either.  Of course it can't be easy. Oh well we knew we were headed in the right direction and if worse comes to worse,  my phone is charged and ready to get us to Redondela,  our next stop. 

Finally after walking block after block of busy urban streets,  we opened our guidebook and picked an alburgue outside city limits that looks to be on the Camino path.  The streets we climbed to get there have nothing on San Francisco!  These were steep! Right before the alburgue,  we picked up the arrows.  You don't know what a welcome and comforting sight they are. They seem to take on a life and energy of their own, as if they are some benevolent entity saying "come! This way! You are not lost ". This is the Camino. 

We came to a forested path called the Senda de Agua. It was so welcome and so peaceful.  We really needed this after the cacophony of Vigo. We also needed to sit and take a rest and John said, "Wouldn't it be nice if around the next corner there would be a picnic table and let's just throw in a waterfall." We both laughed just happy to be in a peaceful place with no traffic.  Now there is a thing around these journeys called "Camino magic ". Can you guess what is about to happen?  I  hardly believe it myself.  Around the next corner,  you guessed it,  was a picnic table and a waterfall. Who knows if it truly exists or if the spirit of the Camino just magically provides us a little treat.  See the picture above. Proof. I am not making this stuff up!

Finally walked into Redondela where the coastal route and the interior Portuguese route meet up.  Up until now,  this has been a more solitary walk but here we find LOTS of pilgrims now.  Had a beer at a café while John secured reservations at the hotel.  We had to go to the coffee shop around the corner to check in since there was no reception. Very nice and comfy room for 50€.

Napped after buying a sub par salad at the grocery and eating some of our snacks from the  breakfast.  John was dying for fresh veggies and ham and cheese sandwich is getting old fast.

Ventured out later and found a really cool bar that serves craft beer!  Yay for John!  I  just felt like the delicious and cold Albarino vino. A tapas with each round complimentary.  The couple across from us started to chat us up and recommend a beer to John.  We learned that they are Mexicans living in Spain for the last 27 years!  They asked if we would be up for going with them to a local bar that was their favorite.  I begged off saying we really needed to go to bed since we had to get up and walk in the morning.  Rodrigo (Roy) spoke our language by saying that we should not pass up opportunities for experiences presented.  Of course not! Left in his Mercedes  (every one in Europe seems to drive Beemers and Mercedes ) with he and Mar, his girlfriend and spent an hour or so drinking the yellow local liquor so common to this area and learning some Spanish curse words.  The people were all so nice to us and interested in our journey.  They were very supportive like when we told them where our destination was for tomorrow,  they laughed and said,  "Man, I can drive there in 5 minutes! "

In bed sometime after midnight.  This has got to stop. Hahaha 

Bushwhack Hell into Vigo 12K Out of Our Way.

 Ancient Roman Bridge

Vacated our hotel and met up with the Canadians and made our way to the edge of town where we enjoyed cafés and yummy pastries.  I love being back in Spain where even at coffee,  some little treat is included with your  drink purchase. 

We found the yellow arrows and much to Gina ' s chagrin,  we started following them. She so wanted to walk along the water.  The arrows were leading a bit inland but we were never far from the ocean.  We would not have a day like yesterday however.

We meandered straight up a pretty forested hill and everyone was going good.  We came to a village and we wanted a café/bathroom stop but after asking a local,  were told that it was 5 minutes off Camino towards the water.  Gina was voted down and we kept to the course of the arrows.  Finally after another hour or so we came to a nice café spot. Threw off the packs and unlaced the shoes and ordered refreshments.  Lena from Norway joined us and asked if she could walk with us a while.  Evidently she regretted it since she ended up taking a bus later that day to Santiago!  In reality,  she was pressed for time and wanted to include a walk to Finisterre.  I'm sure our upcoming trajectory solidified her decision.

Against our  (John and mine) better judgment, we  left the comfort of the yellow arrows and started heading down to the water.  All along this coastal route,  the rule of thumb has been to keep the ocean to your left and you will be just fine. Yeah right.

What began as a fairly easy day turned into a long hot highway to hell. Everyone started to depend on my GPS to make sure we were heading for our destination for the night,  Vigo.  This is a very large city and the gritty suburbs start way far out along the busy N13.  It was holy hell all the way.  Lunch in a stinky bus stop with 18 wheelers exploding by us did not bode well for digestion or appetite! Buen provecho, my a..... We ended up doing probably 10 more miles than we wanted and on the last breath of my phone finally found our hotel around 5:30 or so.  Thank God we booked ahead. I cannot imagine trying to find accommodation at that point. 10 hours of torturous slog. I have no idea the kilometers we walked.  Since walking from Lisbon we had hoped to leave this insane and deafening highway walking behind us.

We supposedly also learned this lesson on the last Camino but I guess it, too, needed revisiting or something. Do your own thing! Temptation to follow the crowd will always lead you astray!

Uncannily as Camino mystery would have it, we had all managed to book into the same hotel without realizing it.  The Vila Plaza or something.  The lobby  was upscale and immaculate.  The 6th floor room was decorated in sterile white cramped asylum motif. Hey, at least the view was good and the bedding was comfortable.  Focus on the positive. Right?

We decided our clothes could not handle one more hand wash so we located a self service  lavenderia. Gina had soap so we were good to go.  10 euro later,  to wash and dry one load,  we determined after a glass of wine that it was totally worth it. Clothes just get cleaner in a machine!

We went next door for dinner since our feet couldn't handle any more walking.  Soup, fish, meat, salad,  dessert and wine all cooked by Gramma and served by her son hit the spot. The fish was breaded and crispy and some of the best so far on this trip.  We spoke in our very best Spanish that it was the best.  Apparently they agreed and charged us 88€ for the meal when we were expecting pilgrim prices. About half that.  In the spirit of the day, that would not be so.

Gina and Bill were laying over a day here and John and I considered it for about no seconds. Hotel already booked.  Oh darn.  Guess we'll just have to GET THE HELL OUT OF TOWN! Put a fork in it!!!

Oia to Baiona Mileage Alot

Met the Canadians from Ontario,  Gina and Bill at breakfast at the hotel.  We've been shadowing each other the last few days and didn't cross paths until now.  We decided to walk together today. Really nice walking along the beautiful, wild and crashing coast line.  The coolest thing that happened was when we decided to stop for lunch in a rest stop on the side of the highway that had a picnic table.  As we were having our sandwiches and fruit made from the earlier breakfast offerings,  a blonde kid on a small motorcycle with a pack on his back pulled up and sauntered over and asked with a big smile if he could join us for lunch.  Of course!  "My name is Bart, as in Simpson ". Huge smile,  looking around and searching our faces for some recognition.  Of course!  Nice to meet you Bart as in Simpson! Turns out this kid (had to be early mid twenties ) had bought a little 50cc motor bike in Porto and was driving it back via the Camino to his home outside of Amsterdam Holland! Noticing he didn't get anything out to eat,  we started unloading fruit on him for which he was very grateful.  He offered to share bread but we declined. We've eaten enough.  He said his bike had some trouble struggling up hills but when he turned out the headlights,  he got a power boost! He told us that after he bought it,  some mechanics checked it out for him and made sure it was road worthy for about 8€ for the service! The Camino is providing for him too. We took photos and bid each other goodbye and good luck. What a bright shining light he was for us! What an inspiring example to live a life fearlessly! I said a prayer for his safety on his way home as he puttered away and out onto the busy highway waving as he went. I'm sure he has a family that loves him.  Made me homesick for my own kids.

Got to the town of Baiona and dropped Bill and Gina off at their fully booked hotel with the promise of meeting up after showers for a look around and a drink and a bite.  We found a great little one star hotel around the corner on a quiet street.

We toured the stunning castle grounds here and walked the ramparts as the sun was setting and painting the sky absolutely brilliant hues of orange and red. So romantic.  The replica of the Pinta, the ship that Columbus sailed to the new world was docked in the picturesque marina there.  I didn't feel compelled to go see it since I had toured it extensively in Carabelle Florida with my parents!  Who would have known! Dinner of omelets  (a kind of potato fritata) and salad and vino then off to bed.

Almost Didn't Stop Oia, Spain

Sunrise! 

View from our room in Oia, Espana

                   For Kayla and Tanner , thought this was cool.

My happy hour spot. Abarino vino! 1.50€ Hard not to have more than one. So I did.

Our view of the Monastery.  Heard incredible vespers chanted by the nuns before mass here.

After some spectacular but oddly really tiring walking today,  my shoulders were killing me, we made it to Oia. Another lovely seaside town that just seemed dead. Surely there were no more pilgrims on the Camino since we seemed to be the only ones.  Until we left our hotel to get a glass of wine.  Then we met 40 something Italian Eric who was currently living in Budapest.  We let him order extra tapas.  So glad to be back in Spain where you get some kind of snack with your drink.  We had a bruchetta with Jamon (ham) Serrano style with sardines.  Yes, John ate them! Wonders are still not ceasing. Anyway we convinced Eric to stay at our hotel since his knees were hurting.  Probably won't see him after today since he is walking big kilometers....hence the knee problems I guess. Lots more pilgrims moved through later in the afternoon and we had the best seats in the house for happy hour overlooking the gorgeous bay and the ancient Monastery. Ventured into this impressive space later and heard the nuns singing vespers. So beautiful and meditative.
Dinner del Dia (of the day) with Eric at our hotel for $10 euro each. Usually 3 courses with wine. Soup, salad. Beautiful fresh cod for me which was like a whole fish chopped into three pieces with boiled potatoes and John got two huge pork chops with chips (fries). I couldn't finish all of my cod, so John did and thought it was some of the freshest and best fish he had ever tasted. Jug of wine,  ice cream and the yellow Spanish liquor that I can't remember the name of but was delicious. Slept with windows open facing the crashing ocean and black starry night.  Indescribable. 

Sleeping in a 14th Century Convento in A Guarda Spain

 Some friendlies along the way.

 Almost to the town Caminha.

 Mario's boat taxi across the River Mino into Spain 

 Mario

 Beautiful boardwalk on the Spanish side.  

Interesting statuary in our convent hotel.

Very nice walking this morning, minimal roads and wide shoulders when we ended up on them. Lots of forested path which is so nice. We ended up walking about 3 miles more than we wanted to because the ferry in Caminha doesn't run on Mondays.  We'd heard this but for some reason chose not to believe it. Okay,  we can either stay here for the night and get the ferry in the morning that may or may not leave on time due to tides or we can try to get a hold of this guy we heard of who will take you across for 5€ a person. I had his number so I called it and was given to a semi English speaker, Mario's brother.  We established a time to meet and where.  I thought he said Restaurant Isla but my GPS had no clue.  Walked to the tourist office in Caminha and the lovely lady knew exactly what we were talking about and drew directions for us on the map. I had the name of the restaurant wrong but now we knew where to go. I felt like we had just won the next clue on Amazing Race! Only problem was, it was a mile and a half back the way we came.

We had time for a beer on the dock while we waited for our 2pm scheduled meeting time.  Sure enough a car with a pilgrim shell dangling from the rear view mirror told us this was the guy. He said in the best Portuguese we could understand that there were two more people expected but after waiting another 15 minutes they were a no show and we hopped on the boat.  We thought possibly his explanation of where he was taking us meant out into the Atlantic and straight into A Guarda and we'd have no more walking that day. No such luck.  A 5 minutes ride across the river and we paid Mario and jumped out onto the beach.  About an hours beautiful walking on la Costa and we found ourselves right in the shimmering seaside town of A Guarda Spain in Galicia.  Nice to be back in Spain!

We didn't make any hotel reservations but right away we came upon the 2 star Hotel Convento San Benito. A ancient convent and Monastery that had been turned into a hotel.  This place was amazing for 48€ a night. As always,  whenever we get a tub I'm in it.  After a rest, we ventured out for supplies and dinner we wandered around this old place and took advantage of the complimentary port wine offered to guests near the cloister.  Nice! We are back in Spain certainly.  Groceries are different,  the way we remember them from our last Camino.  Made our way through town and found a pizza place where we had the ensalada mixto and yes John ate the tuna! Will wonders never cease! And a pizza bolognaise to share. All very good washed down with a nice rioja.

Ancora Portugal Another Great Town on the Costa

 Racehorse 

 Found some nice walking trails 

Forts all up the coast.

It was bushwhacking right off the bat this morning as we decided to forego the yellow arrows and stick to the Atlantic.  We find we can walk parallel to the waymarked Camino and not get lost. ...or too lost.  We saw a handful of pilgrims walking north like we were on the N3. We wanted to go left to the ocean. They started yelling at us like we were lost. Everyone tries to keep us going on the arrows but it's not as scenic sometimes. We ended up on some beautiful forested walking trails with ocean right next to us. Reminded me of some places in California only wilder, less discovered and with more ancient forts.

We ended up on a really dicey part of the N3 coming into Ancora after a 12 mile day. I resorted to using GPS and thought we were the only sorry saps in that situation but we ran into our Canadian pals, Bill and Gina. They were a bloody mess.  Literally.  They had gotten caught up bushwhacking same as us but ended up on the wrong side of a nasty brier patch. They had also run out of water. They were in a bad spot. We were staying in the same town and at the grocery, we left them and wished them better luck tomorrow.

We overshot the hotel by a half mile.  Damn. That's another mile walked.  Finally figured it out.  What a great place!  Hotel Meira. 4 star luxury for 60€. Pilgrim special 4 course meal on offer for 15€. John ate pulvo. Octopus. He has been eating things I never thought I'd  see him eat, like an entire sandwich smothered in mayo. Which he hates. And the canned tuna on a salad. Strange what walking 15 miles a day will make you eat.

Anyway nice celebratory dinner for our last night in Portugal 'on the Camino '. We'll look forward to coming back.  I'm looking forward to speaking Spanish finally.   Just have not gotten the swing of Portuguese! Bom noite!

Rali Hotel Rocks It Off Day in Viana do Castelo

After the long walk yesterday,  it was nice to spend a rest day in this lovely town. The breakfast at the hotel was nice and the commercial Koerig type coffee maker was amazing.  It made my café com leite perfectly.  The receptionist and one of the restaurant guys has become like family,  always glad to see us when we come back from touring and even telling us we needed jackets before heading out to dinner.

Wandered around town before resting up for dinner which doesn't really seems to crank up until around 8:30. Before hand John thought the Jacuzzi sounded good.  That is until he forgot to get a towel,  shower cap and rinse off in the shower before he entered the pool.  All eyes were upon him. One guy even got out to turn on the shower as if to show him what he had missed!  Oh well,  time to start living our dirty pilgrim heathen heritage.

Dinner was a tomato salad,  soup and frango (chicken that I ordered this time ) with rice and mushrooms.  John got the biggest "personal pitcher" dark German beer ever that ended up costing as much as my dinner.  Interesting.