Much discussion and looking over the map to hopefully decide if we can cut the 29.5k or 18 mile stage in half. If we walk to Conimbriga 10k away, that would be an easy walk and give us a light walking day into Coimbra. There also is the possibility of stopping a bit further on in Cernache at a college.
Started off early and right away ran into Ellen from the night before. After walking awhile we came upon a nice looking café at some Roman ruins where John was really looking forward to a cerveja since we anticipated a short day. It was closed like a mirage in the desert. Ellen joked that St. John did not want pilgrim John to have a beer that early or at all. Oh well. But alas! Around the next corner was an amazing bar/café that actually had an ice cold Estrella and also some other types of dark beer we hadn't seen yet. Jackpot! Just when you think all is lost, keep the faith, have patience because something BETTER could be awaiting you! Thank you St. John! I had a coffee and Ellen enjoyed a lemonade. Walking with Ellen made for good time and before you know it we were in Conimbriga. It was only around 11:00. Feeling good, we both decided to push on to the next place taking the chance on the accommodation. Mistake. The college was closed. No choice now. Onward to the third largest city in Portugal and it's old capital before Lisbon, Coimbra. We planned to take a couple of days here. We can do this.
Our bodies are starting to get used to this punishment as we made it without too much pain. We secured hotel Domus, an adequate clean one star, in a city full of tourists. John wandered around and found a couple of good bottles of Duro Tinto since we will stay for two nights here. Had dinner at a recommended grill place where John had some of the best grilled chicken! My steak was so so. The square was vibrant and we were treated to a great folkloric show with lots of music and dancing! Looking forward to using Rick Steve's 10lb book I've been lugging around tomorrow.
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